Gun Leather

Six guns need gun leather, that is, holsters and gunbelts. In the Old West, holsters were commonly referred to as scabbards, but these days we commonly think of a scabbard as a leather case attached to a saddle that carries a rifle. Technically that would be called a rifle scabbard, as opposed to a pistol scabbard (or a sword scabbard.) Anyway, these days we mostly refer to pistol scabbards as "holsters."

When I first got into western shooting, I bought my holsters on the cheap. I bought Oklahoma Leather Products' holsters. They looked historical and the price was right for a beginner. But these holsters are made of soft, very pliable leather. A gun needs good support when drawing, reholstering, or carrying. After a year or so, my inexpensive holsters began to deform when reholstering, ie. the cylinder of the gun would catch the edge of the holster and bend it inward, and so I had to hold the holster open with one hand while reholstering the gun with the other...very inefficient when you are working against the clock. Also, the holsters began to show minor tears at stress points, and they attracted grime like crazy (I was shooting black powder percussion pistols.) I needed better holsters.

At that time, I couldn't understand why a good double-holster rig and belt could cost more than a six-shooter. Since I started tinkering with leatherwork on my own, I understand why. Good leathercraft is labor-intensive. Quality materials, tools, and other supplies require a sizable investment for both the hobbyist and the professional. Something seemingly as simple as border stamping requires specific tools, patience, and care. You get what you pay for.

I saw an ad by "Old Slapout Holsters," perused his products, and ordered the Plainsman's Double-Buckle Rig. The right side holster was sized for a 5 1/2 " SAA in standard RH draw; the left holster was sized for a 7 1/2" SAA in RH crossdraw configuration. Since I like the austere look of 1960s TV show/movie fast-draw holsters, I specified the decorative tooling to be restricted to a simple, grooved border along the belt and holster edges. The double-buckles reinforce the '60s look. I found out that my "Remingtons" fit the hoslters as well as my "Colt" SAAs.

Notice that my guns have different barrel lengths. Most shooters match their 2nd gun to the first for ease of handling. In the Old West, very few gunmen carried two guns in a matched set of holsters as in the old movies. An extra gun, if carried, was tucked into the pant waist or carried in a coat pocket, etc. and more than likely did NOT match the first gun. It was considered a back-up gun, and often had a much shorter barrel than the holstered gun. Since western-shooting safety regulations prevent us from carrying loaded guns in our pants, or in coat pockets, a second hoslter is required. For this reason, I carry my second gun in a crossdraw holster, which is visually closer to being carried in a pant waist. I'm not a "gamer," so the difference in feel and action between the two guns does not bother me...too much.

I got interested in re-creating Henry Fonda's film character in Sergio Leone's western masterpiece "Once Upon a Time in the West." Frank, as the character is called, is an evil gunman. I didn't want to glorify the part, just copy the "look" of Frank. So I ordered a custom hat that replicates Frank's, as well as some other clothing items. I called Slapout and asked him if he could make me a 60's style rig with a drop-loop holster (never used in the real Old West, but common in movies and TV.) I wasn't intersted in Frank's holster, per se, as it is a short holster in which the Colt's barrel protrudes 2 inches past the toe of the holster. It's also canted forward for fast-draw. I just wanted a full length holster in a drop-loop belt which featured 4 cartridge loops ahead of the holster...a distinctive design for Frank's rig. For cowboy shooting matches, I also specified a 5 1/2 inch RH crossdraw holster for my Pietta .45. This is not worn as a drop-loop, but has an angled (canted) over-the-belt loop as most realistic western holsters do.

I have not been able to locate a photo of an actual, historical crossdraw holster in the Old West in which the belt loop was canted for a quicker draw. Plenty of strong-side holsters were worn cross-draw style, but they rode the cartridge belt in a vertical postiion. They may have tilted somewhat when on horseback, or when a gun was drawn, but they weren't designed and built to ride on the belt at an angle. Modern cowboy crossdraw holsters may be angled up to 30 deg. maximum, although 20-25 deg. is more common.

Slapout built me a rig, which I'm generally satified with, although the holster pouches and skirt (behind the pouch) are squared-off. This doesn't look right to me, but I can live with it for now. I may take a leather shears to the holster skirts and round them off along the bottom.

Fig. 1 My Oklahoma holsters were adequate, but did not stand up to heavy use over time. The plain belt has no cartridge loops, and was purchased second-hand at a gun shop. Note: I prefer to carry my left-side gun in a right-hand crossdraw holster.

Fig. 2 "Plainsman" double-buckle rig, with knife sheath added. Guns by Uberti and Pietta.

Fig. 3 My "Once upon a time in the West" rig. Note that the larger holster is suspended from a drop-loop in the cartridge belt's right side. The smaller crossdraw holster slips over the belt and is worn on the left side (actually, more on my front thigh for ease of drawing.) To be accurate to the movie, the drop loop holster should have a 5 1/2 inch pouch and be canted forward for a quick draw. See Figs. 4, 5.

Click here for more on Leone's movie and Frank

Fig. 4 Fonda's gun rig.

Fig. 5. Note forward cant.

Fig 6. Lawdog's rig. I prefer the full-length, non-canted holster. The four forward cartridge loops visually link the rig to Fonda's gunbelt.

I eventually got interested in putting together a B-western outfit, both costume and gun rig. In SASS-sponsored cowboy action shooting, there is a shooting category called B-western. It's not historical at all, but is based on the old cowboy movies (often serials) of the 1930s and '40s. Outfits are fancy and the guns are carried in double rigs with drop-loops and lots of leather tooling, shiny conchos and spots, etc. The costume part was relatively easy, and I had all the guns I needed. What I didn't have was a fancy double-holster rig. A good rig can cost well over $700, minimum, and I didn't want to invest that kind of money. Then I found some holsters and gunbelts sold by Western Emporium. They are imported from Mexico and feature ornate machine stampings that resemble hand-tooled leather. However, there are some rather odd features about them which I didn't care for. But the price was right...$139 for a two-holster rig. I figured I could re-work the rig and upgrade its appearance to my satisfaction.

Fig. 7 shows what the original holster set looked like. Below is a list of alterations I made.

1. I removed the ugly snap loops that obscured an interesting tooled flower, and made new, more authentic-looking loops located a few inches lower.

2. I added decorative conchos to holsters and gunbelt.

3. I covered the sloppy-looking cartridge-loop ends with conchos, which also anchored the loops more securely.

4. The belt was too big for my waist (even though it was supposedly sized for me) so I detached the billet, punched another hole, then sewed it two inches tighter. I added two screw posts for additional strength.

5. While the holsters and belt are lined, the edges formed by the two leathers were rough and unfinished, as were the tie-downs. I stained the edges with Fiebing's brown Edge-Kote, then slicked them to a semi-gloss with a wooen edge slicker. While I was at it, I dyed the tie-downs with Eco-Flo Java dark brown stain.

The holsters have somewhat amorphously-shaped pouches, which appear to be designed for fast draw. I've never seen an actual western or movie/TV holster shaped quite like these. They're sized for a six-inch barrel, so my 5 1/2 " and 7 1/2" SAA clones both look okay in these holsters, and the overall effect is pretty good. See Figs. 8, 9, 10.

Fig. 7 Western Emporium's rig out of the box.

Fig. 8 Sloppy finish on cartridge loop ends.

Fig. 9 Conchos added over loop ends to secure better, and improve appearance.

Fig.10 "Mexican" loop added lower down with steer-head concho; decorative rope-berry conchos added to belt.

So far, I've discussed the rigs I use for my SAA guns. I decided to obtain special gun leather for my "Remingtons" and 1860 Army as well.

While creating an impression of a Civil War veteran/soldier of fortune in Mexico (many California veterans in the Southwest later fought for the Mexican Revolution,) I saw the need for distinctive, period holsters and belts. In the late 1860s, holsters would be California or Slim-Jim, form-fitted scabbards. Such holsters had a relatively narow belt loop on the back to slide over the narrow gun belts of the day. These belts did not have cartridge loops. Although cartridges came into use in the years following the Civil War, the standard practice for many was to carry extra cartridges in a surplus Army cap box.

I asked Karla Van Horne of Purdy Gear to make a holster for my 1860 Army using a design she calls "Frank's holster." I like the design because the loop is mounted high on the back, allowing the holster to hang an inch or so lower than in most other California holsters, an important consideration when drawing a gun with an 8 inch barrel (see Figs. 11, 12.)

As a second gun for this impression, I chose the short-barreled (5 1/2 inch) New Model Army. I asked David Carrico of Carrico Leather to make a holster for this firearm, also a Slim-Jim design. This is a standard RH vertical holster, but I wear it crossdraw on the left side (toward the front of my leg.) I specifically desired a different-appearing holster created by another maker, to create the impression of a gun rig and guns obtained over a period of time. (See Fig. 13.)

To support both holsters, I had David make me a dark brown belt that he calls an 1874 belt. Actually such belts were originally saber belts used in the Civil War, but were frequently used to support holsters as well. Many items issued to soldiers were made by a variety of makers and not all were regulation designs or colors (regulation color for this belt would be black, but I've seen color photos of some belts of this type which were dark brown or buff brown.) The buckle is a federal regulation 1851 style used during the Civil War. For cartridges, I added a cap box purchased from Fall Creek Sutlery. (See Fig. 12.) The cap box is black with no insignia. U.S. leather-stampings were not common on U.S. Army leather until the 1870s.

Fig. 11 California holster sized for 1860 Army.

Fig. 12 California holster with Civil War belt and capbox.

Fig. 13 California holster for short-barreled 1863 New Model Army

Click to learn about the California veterans

Finally, I decided my two long barreled 1863 New Model Armies needed their own holster rig, appropriate to their size, style, and era. I mostly shoot those guns with cartridge conversion cylinders, and in the Old West that would date them from the late 1860s to the early 1870s. I have an 1873 rifle, so that narrowed things down.

I opted for an early-style, half-skirt Mexican loop holster for the strong side (RH direct draw). This style evolved in the Southwest during the early '70s in response to the need for a holster that would slip over a cartridge belt. I like a California style holster for the crossdraw, and I figured the combination of those two styles would indicate the transition period I was trying to demonstrate.

I contacted Allen Soelner at Chisholm's Trail Leather. I ordered the West Texas model for the right side, and the movie holster Pale Rider in crossdraw configuration. The color is Cowboy Brown. Having the second holster match Clint Eastwood's holster from my favorite movie is a special touch. The cartridge belt is pretty standard, has 18 loops and a decorative buckle. I asked for a very simple stamped border on the holsters and an edge line groove on the belt. See Figs. 14, 15.

Finally, I needed a hoslter for the pocket pistol, based on an 1865 Remington design. Instead of purchasing a commerical product, I decided to practice making my own holster. I used a piece of scrap leather, wrapped it around the gun to see if it would fit, then sketched a pattern on a piece of paper, fitted it to the contour of the pistol, and transferred the pattern to the leather. I tested the fit several times before cutting it. I trimmed back the piece of leather once I had the holster blank ready, once again fitting and trimming until I got the exact contour I wanted (California style.) I stamped the border and carved a floral design, then sewed a belt loop to the back and hand-stitched the outside edge of the holster. I stained it light brown. (See Figs. 16. 17, 18.)

Fig. 14 "West Texas" Mexican half-skirt, single-loop.

Fig. 15 "Pale Rider" holster in crossdraw.

Fig. 16

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

After completing this little holster project, and having purchased a copy of Richard Rattenbury's classic book, Packing Iron: Gunleather of the Old West, I became intrigued with the idea of making my own holsters. I've made several holsters from patterns purchased from Will Ghormley, a Federal pattern civil war holster, and my own design inspired by a holster I saw in Packin' Iron. Below are some pictures.

Two versions of John Wayne's classic holster, accompanied by a money/cartridge belt. Will Ghormley pattern.

Federal 1863 holster, pattern by Etowah Productions. I made it non-regulation RH draw.

I made this Dodge City holster from a Ghormley pattern. It's based on the work of R.E Rice, from late 1870s Dodge City, Kansas.

This holster was inspired by one featured in Packin' Iron, although not an exact copy. The original was made by S.C. Gallup Saddlery in Pueblo , Colorado, ca. 1905. I couldn't afford real Navajo silver conchos like the original had, so I used similar-looking inexpensive items from Tandy. This holster is tooled with basket-weave stampings. I made my own pattern based on studying photographs and using some design ideas from earlier projects.

When all is said and done, there are hundreds of gunleather options avalable to the shooter. If all you want is off-the-shelf holsters and cartridge belts, my vote goes to Triple K leather products. They have a reputation for well-made holsters and belts, offer a reasonable variety of styles and options, including gun-type and size, some color variations, period vs. modern, etc. There are many retailers who carry the line, and some offer prices 20-40% below msrp. If you want something that is absolutely period-correct, features beautiful leatherwork, follows a specific movie or historical prototype, etc. order your gunleather from a private maker...or make your own!

LAWDOG BOB'S

OLD WEST

Gun Leather